Fly Tying

5 Strange Fly Tying Materials that Really Work

Jason Akl — Wed, 29 Apr 2015 20:07:27 +0000

5 Strange Fly Tying Materials that Really Work

Jason Akl Wed, 04/29/2015 - 15:07

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A common misconception amongst inexperienced fly tiers is that prepped materials are the only ones worthy of a place by the vice. Veteran tiers eventually learn that being creative and using unlikely materials can save money and create some truly eye popping patterns.

Many fly tiers limit their abilities by only using conventional materials. Use your imagination when sitting down at your fly tying vice and bring some new life to old patterns.

Over the last twenty years of tying I have come to the conclusion that, if I look hard enough, I can find tying materials almost everywhere. Here are five unlikely materials that have become some of my favorites:

1. Gift-Wrap

This is an item that you can find at almost any store, especially around the holidays. Depending on how creative you are, it has endless uses. When looking at what gift-wraps to select, remember that you need plastic not paper. I like to use wraps that come in metallic, pearly, or transparent finishes.

Don’t waste time trying to trim these materials with your scissors. Use a sharp razor and a ruler to cut precise strips. These are perfect for body wrappings on salmon flies, added flash under hair wing baitfish, shellbacks for scuds, and underbodies for epoxy minnows.

This salmon fly was tied using gift-wrap and a Halloween wig.

2. Halloween Wigs

Wigs don’t only make great tying material; they are a blast to shop for. Aside from trying on each wig for its visual appeal, I like to look for wigs that have been died bright colors and have long fibers. These synthetic fibers can be used for a multitude of minnow or baitfish imitations.

Tiers can layer the materials to create very realistic and attractive patterns. Synthetic wig materials do not absorb a lot of water, they are very colorful, and with a bit of epoxy applied at the head of the fly, they become very hard to destroy.

3. Birthday Balloons

Here’s another material that you can find in stores, and possibly around the house, all year round. Balloons are available in almost any color, but the new glow colors add an interesting twist to existing flies. Balloons in yellow, tan, green, or glow white make good larval bodies for nymphs. If you can’t get the exact color you need, permanent markers can help doctor them up.

Balloons are useful in creating shellbacks for scud patterns. The stretch gives them a realistic look for scuds and makes them relatively easy to use.
The tighter you stretch the material, the smoother it will look. On other patterns, a tight stretch also gives you the opportunity to add hackle barbs or legs in successive wraps.

Just like the gift-wrap, use a razor and ruler to cut the balloons, rather than scissors. If you are able to cut your balloons thin enough, the strips can be used as rubber legs in streamers or designed as claws for crayfish patterns.

The shimmer of gift-wrap was combined with dubbing made from carpet to create this flash fly.

4. Carpet Samples & Scraps

Carpet fibers, if cut from the backing and blended, are great for all standard nymphs, dry flies, and streamers. Add a bit of sparkle yarn when blending dubbing if you want some flash. Just cut fibers from the backing, then spin, stack, and tease them out to create dense heads for minnow patterns.

5. Envelope Windows

Envelopes that feature plastic windows are typically accompanied with credit card bills, bank statements, and junk mail. Their negative connotation will quickly disappear when you realize these little beauties are fantastic for wing-cases and shellbacks on nymphs or scuds. They are great for being epoxied over as they don’t absorb the adhesive.

If you are going to be tying large dry flies like Hexagenia, envelope windows are perfect for simulating the large transparent wings. Use a black pen to make a checkerboard on them for an extra layer of realism—but that is more for the angler than the fish. If you have trouble shaping the wings correctly there are cutter sets available that allow for a more precise pattern.

Take a look around you, and discover potential fly tying materials almost everywhere. When you find a potential material, experiment with different fly patterns and techniques. You will be amazed at what using some non-traditional materials can do to bring life to your old flies.

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How to Select the Perfect Scissors for Fly Tying

Jason Akl — Tue, 06 Jan 2015 18:22:05 +0000

How to Select the Perfect Scissors for Fly Tying

Jason Akl Tue, 01/06/2015 - 12:22

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Fly Tying

With many different types of scissors available to the avid fly tier, trying to pick out a quality pair is not as easy as it might sound. Different sizes, styles and lengths can all effect how scissors perform. Understanding the basics will help you choose the perfect pair.

Choose the Best Blades

Tying scissors can range anywhere from 3 to 8 inches in length. Every fly tier has their own preference, so experiment with a few until you find what is right for you. Blades should be long enough to make trimming easy, but short enough to allow for precise cuts. Personally I prefer a four inch pair that is just a bit longer than the shortest models.

No matter which pattern you are tying, a good pair of scissors is essential. Be sure to try out different styles, sizes, and blades.

The pair I use has straight blades. This allows me to make precise cuts by using my off hand to steady what I am doing. Curved bladed scissors are billed as having special applications in fly tying, but over the years I have not found anything that I cannot do with my straight bladed scissors.

Just as there are multiple lengths and shapes to scissors, there are also different types of cutting edges. Different edges are better for different materials. Serrated blades work best for dense, rough materials, and slippery synthetics. Straight blades are better for cutting fine, smooth materials and fragile naturals.

Don’t Lighten Up

The scissors that you choose should be weighted appropriately and balanced from the tip to the loops. When shopping, pick up and try the scissors in your hand. The pair you choose should not be extremely light, but should also not be heavy enough to cause fatigue in your fingers. Keep in mind that better quality steel scissors will weigh much more than cheaper aluminum pairs. A balanced, weighted, pair of scissors will actually help to steady the precise scissor tips when performing delicate cuts. In addition, a heavier pair of quality scissors will aid the tier in cutting dense stiff materials, like deer hair or raffia, when lighter models will bind up.

Find the Right Fit & Function

Tying scissors can have three different styles of eyes: round, oval or open loops. Whatever style you choose, make sure that when you seat the scissors on your fingers there is enough room for them to slide back and forth freely. Most tiers like to “palm” their scissors as they tie, but if the pair you choose fits too tight, you will not have the freedom you need to tie delicate flies.

Look for a pair of scissors that opens and closes easily but stays shut when you place the jaws together. Look along the closed blades and make sure they meet evenly along the entire surface of the blade. Scissors that do this should cut smoothly through the entire stroke. Also, having a fine tip to the scissors you select will allow you to get into hard to reach spots and make precision cuts.

When purchasing a new pair of scissors take the time to try different styles, lengths and blades. Find the pair that fit your hand and needs the best. The right pair of scissors will last many years, be comfortable to use, and give precision cuts every time.

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Think Thread Doesn’t Matter When Tying Flies? Learn How to Pick the Right Thread for the Job

Jason Akl — Wed, 10 Dec 2014 17:19:19 +0000

Think Thread Doesn’t Matter When Tying Flies? Learn How to Pick the Right Thread for the Job

Jason Akl Wed, 12/10/2014 - 11:19

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Fly Tying

Many fly tiers won’t skimp when it comes to purchasing fly tying materials such as hackles or dubbing for fly tying but never pay any thought to the thread they’ll be using. Other than the hook, fly tying thread is the most important item used in flies because it is what holds all the materials in place.

Next time you’re shopping for fly tying thread, take a moment to consider thread type, size and whether single-strand or multi-strand is best.

Single-Strand Threads Versus Multi-Strand Threads

Both of these types of threads have advantages when it comes to tying, but overall, single-strand threads are easier to use especially for the novice tier. While multi-strand thread generally lies flatter on the hook shank (smoother appearance) than single-strand thread, the fraying or breaking strength of this fiber makes it harder to work with. As you wrap multi-strand threads, they can fray (by hitting the hook point or having too much pressure) or separate causing the person tying to go back and correct the wraps. You can spin this thread to keep it tight but it is another chore that the tier has to remember.

Tread Materials

Three basic thread types dominate the fly tying market. Nylon, Polyester and Kevlar are the most used threads by today’s tiers. Silk or newer gel spun polyethylene (GSP) is also available if one looks hard enough. Nylon and polyester are cheap, thin and strong, making them ideal for tiers. Nylon threads in comparison to polyester have more stretch making them easier to work with. Kevlar threads are super tough with very little stretch. While Kevlar can be a bit of a bear to work with, it has its uses when it comes to large flies, synthetic materials or spinning hair.

When thinking about the many different sizes of threads, tiers generally lean towards using the smallest diameter of thread they are comfortable with. The smaller the thread, the less bulk there is on the fly as you wrap down materials. The one exception to this rule is when tiers are creating large patterns and need a very strong thread to spin/flare hair or cinch synthetics in place tightly. Below is a table of the basic thread sizes and their general uses.

Click here to see a larger veiw of the Fly Fishing Thread Sizes and Description chart.

Wax Versus Non-Waxed

Tying thread is available in either waxed or non-waxed varieties. The waxed threads will be a bit easier to work with when wrapping down unruly materials (the wax sticks to materials holding them in place until pressure is applied locking them down) and these threads can be dubbed without special preparation. Non-waxed threads are cleaner (they don’t pick up dirt and debris from your tying station) have less bulk, and take up glues better. You can always spot wax a part of your thread by hand if you need to dub a section for a fly body.

Take some time to practice with different thread sizes and types to find out what works for you and the pattern you are tying. Remember, like hooks, good thread is not something to skimp on. Having the right materials in your fly tying kit will help you avoid frustration and make for a more enjoyable fly tying experience.

Deer hair is another important element for fly tying. Learn how to pick the best deer hair for your fly fishing creations at Bass Pro Shops 1Source.

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3 Factors You Should Consider When Buying a Fly Tying Bobbin

Jason Akl — Tue, 25 Nov 2014 16:24:35 +0000

3 Factors You Should Consider When Buying a Fly Tying Bobbin

Jason Akl Tue, 11/25/2014 - 10:24

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Fly Tying

Over my years in fly tying, I have been lucky enough to test nearly all fly tying bobbins. There are so many different varieties and styles of bobbins on the market today, it amazes me that fly tiers can actually find what they need. From cheap to expensive, automatic to manual tensioning; bobbins have come a long way. What do you actually need in a bobbin to tie flies? Below are the basics that you should look for when purchasing a bobbin.

When shopping for fly tying bobbins, one of the first considerations is buying a tool that fits standard-sized spools.

1. Sized to fit standard thread spools

Not all thread company’s spools are the same size or shape. One of the most common diameters for spools is 7.9 mm (0.31″) and the bobbin you choose should definitely fit those, but being able to accept a few different sizes of spools will make it easier for you to use varying thread companies. Another good point to consider is the bobbin you select should be sized so that thread spools fit on securely. If they don’t, there will be an opportunity for the thread to foul up and tangle as you work.

2. Internal finish that protects the thread

As you tie flies, you will be putting varying pressure on the tying thread coming out of the bobbin tube. These tubes need to be flared, polished or have ceramic inserts so that you do not fray or break your thread as you tie. Cheap bobbins are notorious for fraying thread at the point where the thread exits the tube, and this problem will drive even the most patient tier over the edge.

3. Thread tension control

The bobbin you select might have basic (manual) or advanced (automatic) tensioning for the thread. Personally I like being able to handle the thread with my hands and apply the tension I want, but if you have tension problems (regular thread breakage), then the auto devices might be a way to solve it. Whichever you choose, the bobbin should have a smooth feeling to the drag, allowing you to let out or collect thread as needed.

Selecting the right bobbin is something that every fly tier should be able to do with confidence and ease. Keep in mind these few simple points, and you will find a bobbin that will satisfy your needs for years to come.

Bass Pro Shops carries bobbins and all the other fly tying tools you need.

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Essentials to Get Started Fly Tying

Jason Akl — Fri, 12 Sep 2014 20:00:00 +0000

Essentials to Get Started Fly Tying

Jason Akl Fri, 09/12/2014 - 15:00

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Fly Tying

Similar to purchasing the tools for fly tying, trying to decipher what the essential materials are can put a beginning tier into a head spin. Many of the materials available are not absolutely necessary for the beginner, but rather are used sparingly on nontraditional patterns. In fact, most first-rate fly tiers are capable of producing high quality flies created with a minimum of equipment. Using quality materials from the start has advantages for the beginner tier. Flies will be better simply because the quality of the materials used (more durable), but also tying with materials that are produced specifically for tying makes tying flies easier and much more enjoyable.

The materials listed below are the basic materials needed to outfit a beginner's fly-tying kit.

Dubbing Mixtures: Dubbing is the material that makes up the majority of the bodies on fly patterns. Dubbing gets "spun" onto the tying thread and then wound on the hook to form the body of the fly. Basically dubbing can be categorized into a few different broad groupings: natural and synthetic, fine and coarse. The finer dubbings are used to tie smaller dry flies while the coarser materials are used to tie nymphs.

Flies & Fly Tying

Wapsi Dubbing Dispensers Super Fine Dubbing

Smart assortment of 12 terrific colors packed into a plastic Dubbing Dispenser to ensure the color you need is right at your fingertips. The Super Fine dubbing is a synthetic microfiber dubbing that's been permanently waterproofed and allows the tightest control on traditional flies and very small flies of all types.

Flies & Fly Tying

Perfect Hatch 6/0 Perfect Thread 18-Spool Assortment

The Perfect Hatch 6/0 Perfect Thread 18-Spool Assortment is exceptional thread for tying those smaller flies between #14 and #22. This strong 6/0 thread lays flat, meaning just a few turns are more than enough for fixing materials to your flies. Each spool contains 100 yards of 6/0 thread.

It's a good idea to start off your dubbing collection with earth tones.

Dubbing comes in a wide variety of colors and shades and can be blended together to get special shades to match the bugs hatching in your area. Certain animal furs make better dubbing than others. Rabbit, beaver, muskrat and squirrel are hard to beat when it comes to natural fur dubbings and can be used to tie the smallest of flies to the buggiest of nymphs. Beaver and muskrat fur is great for forming tight dry fly bodies due to the fur's ultra-fine consistency and natural water-repellent nature.

Rabbit fur on the other hand is handy for creating underwater patterns such as nymphs and leeches. Rabbit fur absorbs water quickly and produces a seductive undulating motion when moved underwater.

As far as synthetics are concerned, there are many varieties available that offer anything from sparkle to rubber varieties. A good idea is to start your dubbing collection with earth tones. Most of the natural insects you will be trying to imitate will be a shade of these earthy colors. Some of the colors you should look for should be: black, brown, natural tan, rust, olive, cream, near-white, gray, pale yellow.

Thread: Fly-tying thread comes in a wide variety of different colors and sizes. 8/0 size thread is best for tying the smaller sized flies (12-22) and especially good for dry flies. 6/0 thread is what is considered to be the general purpose tying thread. It can be used for tying anything from large streamers to small nymphs while 3/0 sized thread is used for large bass bugs or baitfish imitations. Tying thread comes in two different styles, a monochord thread or a flat prewaxed multistranded thread. The monochord is the best for beginners since it is one single strand of thread and has less chance of fraying while tying. A good idea for beginners is to start out with 6/0 tying thread seeing as it is strong and has a small diameter. Once you become a little more advanced a good idea is to get the thinnest thread possible to tie your patterns. This is particularly important when tying dry flies so that you can reduce the bulk at the head of the fly.

Hackle Feathers: Hackle is a type of feather taken from birds (mostly chickens). The hackle feather can be from either a hen or a cock, but generally "hackle" refers to the feathers of the cock unless specified as hen hackle. In addition to this, hackle feathers can be harvested from two areas of the body, the "neck" or the "saddle." Generally the "neck" hackle feathers have a smaller and finer grade and are more expensive than the hackle taken from the "saddle." Hackle fibers can be still be further separated into three grades: grade 1, grade 2 and grade 3. These grades refer to the quality of the actual hackle feather, where grade 1 is the best and grade 3 is the worst. For beginners a grade 2 is the best choice. You still get high quality dry fly hackle feathers but also a few feathers of larger sizes to practice a few bass bugs or streamer flies. Again, if you are starting out, hackle fibers in black/white grizzly and furnace brown will be the most useful.

Dubbing Wax: Dubbing wax is a substance used to provide a tacky surface on the thread so that dubbings will adhere. Dubbing wax is a very useful material for beginners to experiment with. Each dubbing wax brand has a different tackiness so asking around and testing out a few different products can help you decide what will best suit your needs.

Using the right hook is the most important rule of fly tying.

Hooks: One of the most important rules to remember when learning to tie flies is that you cannot build a proper fly on the wrong hook. Hook shape, size, and strength are some of the most important aspects to fly tying. You would not want to fish for tarpon with a light wire hook the same way as you would not use heavy nymph hook for tiny dry flies.The hook size is defined as the width of the gap. This is the distance from the shank of the hook to the point. The length of the shank of a standard hook is roughly 1 1/2 times that of the gap.

The shape of the hook is defined by the bend. There are two other descriptors: the diameter of the wire and length of the hook compared to the standard hook sizes. If the diameter of the hook is thinner than that of the standard hook, it will be noted as X-light, likewise if it is thicker; it will be noted as X-strong. Similarly, the length of the hook is also compared to the standard hook length and depending if it is longer or shorter it will be denoted as X-long or X-short. In general the X-fine hooks are used for dry flies and the X-heavy for nymphs. The X-short flies are used for small flies and the X-long for streamers. Specialty hooks like curved shank and scuds are also available and are for used grasshoppers and small shrimp imitations.

Flies & Fly Tying

White River Fly Shop Dry Fly Neck Hackle

Craft great-looking patterns with White River Fly Shop® Dry Fly Neck Hackle. These versatile, top-quality fly tying feathers are ideal for tying wings and tails on dry flies, and come in multiple sizes to precisely match your hook sizes.

Flies & Fly Tying

White River Fly Shop Dry Fly Hook

As finely crafted a dry fly hook as you'll find anywhere! Crafted from chemically sharpened, high-carbon steel, our White River Fly Shop® Dry Fly Hook features light wire, standard dry-fly dimensions, low-profile barb, and a precisely finished eye.

As fly tiers, we try and imitate the size of the insects we see, so it is the length of the hook shank that is important rather than the hook gap. The length and shape of the hook will determine if the pattern looks like the natural, and if the fish will be fooled by it.

Head Cement: Quality head cement is something that fly-tiers cannot be without. Head cement serves two general purposes. The first purpose is to seal the head of the fly and protect the thread wraps so that they do not become undone. For this protecting purpose head cement that is thin is needed so that it can penetrate the thread wraps completely and seal the thread together tightly. The second purpose of head cement is to make a glassy coating on the fly head so that eyes can be painted on top. If you are going to be tying baitfish patterns that require a build-up of cement to finish the head then a thicker variety of cement should be used. For smaller dry flies a thinner variety of cement should be used so that there is minimal build up on the head of the fly.

Although the materials listed above only scratch the surface of what you could use on you tying bench, these basic materials will be used in almost every fly you tie.

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3 Tips for Tying Hexagenia Fly Patterns

Jason Akl — Wed, 02 Jul 2014 20:00:00 +0000

3 Tips for Tying Hexagenia Fly Patterns

Jason Akl Wed, 07/02/2014 - 15:00

Category

Fly Tying

Seeing as the Hex Hatch is just a few weeks away, I thought it would be good time to share the three most useful tips I have learned over the years about tying Hexagenia patterns. These patterns should, above all else, be fun to tie for fly fisherman. They are not complex and really no one is going to get a good look at them since flies hatch in the dark and the fishing of these flies occurs at night.

Go Big or Go Home

To tie great hex flies, first and foremost think about size. The real Hexagenia Limbata range in size from 1.5 to 2.5 inches and hatch off the lakes and rivers in huge numbers. If you want to compete for a fish's attention, your fly is going to have to stand out. All the hex patterns I tie are on size 2 or 4 streamer hooks with large hook gapes. The body length alone is 2.5 inches and with the split tail measuring around 3 inches. I want my flies to make an impression when they hit the water with a loud plop and cue the fish into where my fly is at. You have to remember that the hex hatch is at night so anything you can do to help the trout locate and favor your pattern, the better off you are.

Go Light on Colors (for Your Own Good)

Secondly, you should think about the color of the flies you tie. I know I have said the hex hatch takes place in the dark, but I am not talking about color for the fish's sake but rather yours! Light colored flies are going to be easier to pick out on the water's surface in low light and a lot easier to see if you have to turn on your headlamp. One of the keys to fishing the hatch at night is that the better you can see your fly on the water, the better chance you will have to catch fish. As you stand on the bank or sit in your canoe, you will hear many fish feeding and even see the rings from where they are breaking the surface. In this instance, finding feeding fish is the easy part and placing your fly in the feeding lane is what can be difficult. The easier and faster you can pick your fly out on the water the better you can mend your line to get the fly into the fishes feeding lane.

Go With Synthetic Material to Last Longer

Lastly substituting synthetics like foam, antron and rubber into the hex fly patterns you intend on tying will make your patterns float higher and last longer than you ever thought possible. The hatch is known for big fish, and these hungry predators punish flies. You want a pattern that will hold up to multiple strikes and keep floating no matter how many times it gets drowned by a big fish. While natural fibers in most cases look much more realistic than synthetics, this is the one case when you simply are looking for performance not aesthetics. Another point to note about synthetics is that they add the appearance of bulk to a fly while not adding actual weight, making casting and presenting these flies relatively easy for the large size.

Try a few of these tips as you prepare your hex patterns for this year's upcoming hatch. The nights will be hot, the fish will be active and hopefully your fly will be on the menu.

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Summer

Why You May Be Wrong About Bucktail Flies

Steve Galea — Thu, 22 May 2014 11:00:00 +0000

Why You May Be Wrong About Bucktail Flies

Steve Galea Thu, 05/22/2014 - 06:00

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Fly Tying

When I first started tying flies, I tied bucktails. That's fairly standard for most of us because bucktails are relatively uncomplicated and inexpensive to tie.

When I gained competence tying those patterns, I moved onto other things because I thought nothing this simple and unsophisticated could be deadly on fish. So I fly fished for years without giving them a fair shake.

Boy was I wrong. Even though they are simple, they work.

But that's the problem with bucktails. Their simplicity lulls you into thinking no thought went into these patterns. Actually, the good ones contain a whole lot of design considerations. All you need do is examine the most successful ones, such as the Mickey Finn or Art Flick's Black-Nosed Dace.

Those two patterns are excellent examples: the former does a good job imitating the minnow of the same name; the latter does a great job attracting fish with its gaudy colors.

That's the first thing you need to decide with any bucktail you tie. Is it going to be an imitator or an attractor?

The next thing is whether you are going to tie it sparsely or heavily. The general rule of thumb is the faster the water, the heavier the bucktail. Also, if you are trying to simulate a big meal, long heavily tied bucktails do that better.

Largemouth bass and pike in the warm, still waters they inhabit have little aversion to taking heavily tied bucktails. Sparely tied bucktails, on the other hand, have more movement, a slimmer profile and translucence that can be just the ticket for more selective fish such as trout.

Bucktails differ from streamers in that they use deer hair or substitutes to create a baitfish profile. Streamers do the same thing with feathers. The bucktail, by its very nature, however, is more durable and works best in fast, flowing water, when stripped fast or trolled.
Most bucktail imitation patterns follow a standard color scheme with lighter colors on bottom and darker colors on top, just as the baitfish they are trying to imitate do.

This makes sense when you think of it because the lighter coloration on a baitfish's belly blends with the sky and water surface when a fish is below it. Conversely, the dark backs blend well with bottom to provide camouflage that gives them the edge against those predators that attack from above.

The point I'm trying to make is that bucktails catch fish and allow a tyer to experiment with attractor and imitator patterns. And, though they are easy, they are far from simple.

If you haven't tried them in a while, maybe it's time to give them another chance.

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Hot-Spot Flies

Jason Akl — Wed, 05 Mar 2014 21:00:00 +0000

Hot-Spot Flies

Jason Akl Wed, 03/05/2014 - 15:00

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Fly Tying

In case you haven't heard of it the term "hot spot" in fly tying, it simply means adding brightly colored fluorescent material (beads, thread collars or tails) to your fly. The Hot Spot technique originated in the United Kingdom as a way to interest and excite fish from greater distances. The thought process here is once the fish is interested and swims over they very rarely turn down an easy meal.

As far the science behind hot spotting flies goes, fluorescent colors are able to absorb any color of light in the spectrum and give off their own color. Furthermore no matter what the wavelength of light is that gets bounced off the fluorescent thread or bead; it will reflect the fluorescent color back. This is why the hot spot is so productive, as other colors start to fade or change in the water column; fluorescents stay true.

This concept has been used in other styles of fishing for years (trolling baits finished with UV paints, bass baits molded with UV dyed plastics) so applying this concept to fly fishing was only the next step.

To incorporate a hot spot into your fly you should start by thinking of where the placement would generate the most attention. Beads, collars or tails are the three most standard places to add hot spots to flies, but really any material can be substituted for a fluorescent alternative.

When thinking about hot-spotting my flies, I try and keep in mind that if I am going to be fishing in areas that are heavily pressured then I try and keep the added hot spot as subtle as possible. For example, the flies I use on pressured waters will have hot spots placed in partial tail segments or single segments of the abdomen as compared to unpressured streams where I use hot spots in the beads, thread collars and full bodies. Fluorescent Pinks, Oranges and Greens have been what work best in our area (Northern Wisconsin) but don't be afraid to experiment because every stream and river seems to have its own hot color.

If you have not tried fishing Hot Spots on your favorite flies then this spring should be a good one for you. Hot spots are a simple and effective technique to generate some excitement when the bite slows down by bringing a little color into the water.

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Features of Quality Fly Tying Vises

Jason Akl — Wed, 26 Feb 2014 21:00:00 +0000

Features of Quality Fly Tying Vises

Jason Akl Wed, 02/26/2014 - 15:00

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Fly Tying

Thinking about all the different equipment/materials a beginner fly tier needs to start tying, a quality fly tying vise should be on top of the list. Vises have evolved drastically over the last few years and for the beginner tier it can be hard to figure out exactly what are the most important features.

There are three basic components to a vise that make them more or less desirable. First and foremost is the vise's operability. When we talk in terms of operability for vises we are talking specifically how easy it is to use the vise jaws. For example can the vise hold multiple sizes of hooks (ideally sizes 20 to 2/0)? Can the vise hold hooks in multiple positions? Is the vise able to hold onto a hook tightly or do you need to readjust the vise clamp frequently? If the answer to any of these questions is "no" or "not really" then you should figure that this vise will be ok to learn on but not much else. There are going to be a ton of skills and other things to worry about as you learn to tie flies and fumbling with a poorly operating vise just makes it tougher.

The base or c-clamp quality is the next part to the vise that tiers need to be suspect of. Much like the jaws, the c-clamp needs to be able to hold tight. It is essential that the vise stay stationary so that as you apply materials they will go on in an even fashion. If you plan on getting a vise with a pedestal base make sure that the base is heavy enough and wide enough to support the vise. You should be able to put pressure on hooks and the jaws without the base tipping or wobbling about.

Lastly, tiers need to judge a vise on its ability to rotate. The more you tie the more you will want the vise to be able to rotate. Having to remove hooks to invert them is a very slow way to apply materials, and as you get more comfortable with tying you will actually use the rotary action to palmer hackles and wrap ribbing. To judge a vise's rotation check to see how smoothly a vice rotates and if it has a one way spinning action. You want to be able spin the vise, but also have a stop so when you need to put pressure on the fly it won't spin freely. Another nice feature is to have a handle on the back end of the jaws to that you can manage (with your free hand) how fast or slow the fly turns.

There are a lot of small add-ons that might make one vise more attractive like bobbin cradle, or material clips, but to really find a good vise you need to take a look at the vise itself. Once you find a vise that fits your tying style and needs, it will bring you many years of tying enjoyment, and may inspire you to create your own flies.

Visit Bass Pro 1Source blogs to learn more about fly tying.

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Make Your Own Fly Pattern

Steve Galea — Thu, 20 Feb 2014 12:00:00 +0000

Make Your Own Fly Pattern

Steve Galea Thu, 02/20/2014 - 06:00

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Fly Tying

The great thing about fly tying is that it encourages creativity, skill and thought. All you need to do is look at countless variations of well-known flies like the wooly bugger or a host of wet fly patterns to see this much.

The author designed this fly, called the Camp Lake, to catch largemouth bass that inhabit a lake at a hunt camp he visits.

There are hundreds fly recipes out there that every tyer should try to tie at least once. Eventually, however, you'll want to try designing your own pattern.

Designing your own pattern can be a whimsical thing where you use up excess material or it can be a thoughtful process that will take a lot of consideration and experimentation. Either way, however, it's a whole lot of fun.

We all do this different ways.

My experience is that the experimental patterns I tie are typically based on longstanding designs with important variations that my experience tells me might work in the waters I fish.

The photo that accompanies this column is a pattern I've designed called the Camp Lake.

Although it looks like a steelhead fly and would work as one, I designed it to catch the largemouth bass that inhabit a lake at a hunt camp I visit. Those big bass, in that tea-colored water, have shown us that they are partial to gold, orange and black. So I tied this hair-wing fly that has incorporated all these colors on a very strong hook, which is required to land these guys. I'm happy to say that the fly works.

But I'll also be honest and tell you that it's still a work in progress. This bass season, I'll make more modifications to make it easier to tie and more attractive to the fish. That's part of the design process too — the fun part actually.

When creating your own pattern it is important to fish it several times before making changes. Aside from the response you get from fish, you should be considering how it works in or on the water, its silhouette, how easy it is to cast and whether it is too sparse, heavy, flashy or whatever else for the job at hand or the situation you intend it to be used in. Remove any complex processes or delicate material too, if you can.

Refine all these things and you'll soon have a fly that works well that you can truly call your own. Who knows? Maybe somewhere in your imagination is the next wooly bugger. Hey, all great patterns start somewhere.

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